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Don't Cook That

Boiled Calf's Udder for French Forcemeat

Udder stewed, pounded to a paste and sieved — one of the three canonical ingredients of French forcemeat.

From
Mrs. Beeton's All About Cookery
Published
1907
Yikes Scale
Iffy

Exactly as printed, 1907

Put the udder into a stewpan with sufficient water to cover it; let it stew gently till quite done, when take it out to cool. Trim all the upper parts, cut it into small pieces, and pound well in a mortar, till it can be rubbed through a sieve. That portion which passes through the strainer is one of the three ingredients of which French forcemeats are generally composed; but many cooks substitute butter for this, being a less troublesome and more expeditious mode of preparation. Forcemeat (for Cold Savoury Pies). -INGREDIENTS for 1 large pie.-1 lb. of veal, 1 lb. of fat bacon; salt, cayenne, pepper and pounded mace to taste; a very little nutmeg, the same of chopped lemonpeel, 1/2 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, teaspoonful of minced savoury herbs, 1 or 2 eggs. AVERAGE COST, 9d.

Chop the veal and bacon together, and put them into a mortar with the other ingredients mentioned above. Pound well, FORCEMEAT. and bind with 1 or 2 eggs which have been previously beaten and strained, Work the whole well together, and the forcemeat will be ready for use. If the pie is not to be eaten immediately, omit the herbs and parsley, as these will prevent it from keeping. Mushrooms or truffies may be added.

Forcemeat (for Pike, Carp, Haddock, and various kinds of Fish).-INGREDIENTS for sufficient for 1 good-sized fish.-1 oz. of fresh butter, 1 oz. of suet, 1 oz. of fat bacon, 1 small teaspoonful of minced savoury herbs, including parsley; a little onion, when liked, shredded very fine; salt, nutmeg and cayenne to taste; 4 oz. of breadcrumbs, 1 egg. AVERAGE COST, 4d. Mix all the ingredients well together, carefully mincing them very finely; beat up the egg, moisten with it, and work the whole very smoothly together. Oysters or anchovies may be added to this forcemeat, and will be found a great improvement.


Mrs. Beeton's All About Cookery, 1907. Public domain; transcription unaltered.

So what happens if I make it?

Harmless, and genuinely instructive. Before butter was cheap and reliable, pounded udder was the fat that carried a forcemeat, and Beeton is describing standard practice rather than an oddity.

She also records the escape route in the same breath: many cooks substitute butter for this. They won, and the udder quietly left the recipe.

Notes from the 21st century

  • The three ingredients. Veal, fat bacon and udder. Two of the three are still in every quenelle you have ever eaten.
  • The mortar is not optional in 1861. The paste has to be smooth enough to pass a sieve. A food processor does in a minute what the book budgets a long arm for.
  • “Fat bacon” is not rashers. It means unsmoked green bacon or fresh pork back fat. Modern smoked streaky shifts the flavour hard and adds salt.

Also in this book

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