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Brain-paste sandwich filling

Calf brain simmered to a paste, spread between sautéed bread rounds, and served at tea.

From
Salads, Sandwiches and Chafing-Dish Dainties
Published
1911
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Exactly as printed, 1911

just enough water to form a paste). Let the mixture simmer five minutes, stirring constantly; then set aside to become cool. Have some bits of bread prepared as for sandwiches. Heat some clarified butter in the blazer, and in it sauté the bread a delicate brown, and drain on soft paper.

Spread with the cold mixture, press two pieces together, and heat over hot water five or ten minutes. Serve hot. Calf's Head en Tortue.

Peel a dozen mushrooms; break the caps in pieces and chop the stems very fine. Sauté in three tablespoonfuls of butter, adding, if desired, half an onion cut fine. Sprinkle in one - fourth a cup of flour, half a teaspoonful, each, of salt and paprica, and, when the ingredients are well blended, add gradually one cup and a half of stock and one-fourth a cup of tomato juice. Let simmer a few moments, after the sauce boils; then add one pint of meat from a calf's head, cooked and cut in cubes.


Salads, Sandwiches and Chafing-Dish Dainties, 1911. Public domain; transcription unaltered.

So what happens if I make it?

Bovine and calf brain is specified risk material under BSE controls. It is excluded from the food supply in the UK, the EU and the US, and no cooking method changes that — prions are not proteins that heat destroys.

Everything else about the recipe is a perfectly nice chafing-dish sandwich. The filling is the only thing wrong with it, and the filling is the recipe.

Notes from the 21st century

  • Specified risk material. Brain, spinal cord and skull from cattle over a certain age are removed from the food chain by law in most of the West.
  • Prions survive cooking. They are not destroyed by the temperatures any kitchen reaches. Frying, boiling and baking are all irrelevant to the hazard.
  • Chafing-dish cookery was fashionable. A whole genre of tea-table and after-theatre dishes cooked at the table. Brains were an ordinary thing to find in it.

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