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Don't Cook That

Four Cockscombs

A vol-au-vent whose title garnish is four rooster combs, blanched and peeled of their skin.

From
High-Class Cookery Recipes
Published
1906
Yikes Scale
Iffy

Exactly as printed, 1906

دو A few quenelles of Veal or Chicken.

Stir this over the fire until hot, but not boiling; fill in yourvol-au-vent, which should only be done on sending it to table, as it makes the paste damp, and does not appear so satisfactory when filled long before serving; put a lid of pastry on the top and serve.


High-Class Cookery Recipes, 1906. Public domain; transcription unaltered.

So what happens if I make it?

Perfectly safe and once genuinely prized. Cockscomb is gelatinous and mild, the skinning is fiddly rather than difficult, and this was the sort of thing that marked a good kitchen.

The technique is still worth reading. The filling must be hot and never boiling, or the sauce splits and the quenelles toughen, and the case is filled as it goes to the table or the pastry goes soft.

Notes from the 21st century

  • The skin is the work. Combs are blanched and then rubbed until the outer membrane comes away. It is the step that made them a luxury garnish.
  • Still eaten, narrowly. In parts of France and Italy, and in Chinese and Japanese cookery. It never fully disappeared; it just left the English table.
  • Fill at the last moment. The book's warning is sound. A baked puff case holds its crispness for a few minutes once wet filling goes in, and no longer.

Also in this book

  • Curry Powder — First ingredient: a pound and a half of Papaver somniferum, from any large wholesale druggist.

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