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Don't Cook That

Mayonnaise Dressing

A quart of oil beaten into two raw yolks, then kept for a week in a cool place.

From
How to Cook Vegetables
Published
1890
Also printed in
3 other books
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Exactly as printed, 1890

Put the uncooked yolks of two eggs into a clean, cold soup-dish, beat them well with a silver or wooden fork about one minute; then add a half teaspoonful of salt, a dash of cayenne, and, if you like it, a half-teaspoonful of mustard. Work these well together, and then add, drop by drop, a half pint or more of olive oil. You must stir rapidly and steadily while adding the oil. Do not reverse the motion, or it may curdle. After adding one gill of oil, alternate occasionally with a few drops of lemon juice or vinegar. The more oil you use, the thicker the dressing. If too thick, add a half-tablespoonful or more of vinegar, until the proper consistency. More or less oil may be added, according to the quantity of dressing wanted. With care a quart bottle of oil may be stirred into the yolks of two eggs, alternating with a few drops of lemon juice or vinegar, after adding the first gill of oil. It is easier, however, to start with three yolks when making a quart of dressing. In case the dressing should curdle, i. e., the egg and oil separate, which makes the dressing liquid, begin anew at once with the yolks of two eggs in another plate, and after stirring them well, add by teaspoonfuls the curdled Mayonnaise, stirring all the while, and then finish by adding more oil as directed.

In warm weather, it will take only one-half the time, if you put the dish in which you make the Mayonnaise on a piece of ice, or in a pan of ice-water; the oil and eggs should also be cold.

This dressing, if covered closely in a jar or tumbler, will keep in a cool place for one week.


How to Cook Vegetables, 1890. Public domain; transcription unaltered.

So what happens if I make it?

Classical mayonnaise is raw yolk and always has been, and millions of litres are eaten safely every year. The specific problem here is the keeping instruction.

A week in a nineteenth-century larder or cellar is considerably warmer than a modern refrigerator, and salmonella grows well at those temperatures. Commercial mayonnaise is acidified and pasteurised precisely to survive that.

Notes from the 21st century

  • Acid does real work. Enough lemon or vinegar drops the pH and slows growth. Recipes light on acid have less margin than they look.
  • Pasteurised eggs are the clean answer. They emulsify identically and remove the question. Sold in shell and in cartons.
  • A quart is an enormous batch. Which is why the keeping instruction is there. Make a cup and eat it in two days instead.

Also in this book

  • To Can Peas — Raw peas, cold water, three hours in a wash boiler, tighten the lids when cold.

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