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Gherkins (pickling method)

Boiled in half vinegar in an untinned copper basin, and left to cool in it.

From
The Epicurean
Published
1894
Yikes Scale
Big yikes

Exactly as printed, 1894

Cut off the stalks and ends from small gherkin cucumbers; put a few handfuls in a coarse towel or bag, with a heavy handful of kitchen salt, shake them in this bag to cleanse well and remove all the outer roughness and then toss them on a large sieve to free them of the salt; range in a barrel, pour over a brine made with sufficient salt to float an egg or a potato on its surface, cover, and on top lay a heavy weight to keep them under water; leave them so for six days. Now drain off the brine and return to the barrel more fresh brine, it containing as much salt as the first one; put back both cover and weight to keep them submerged under the liquid and leave stand in a cool place. After a short time a scum will form on the surface; this must in no ways be disturbed until the gherkins are needed, for it acts as a protector, preventing any air from penetrating into the liquid. When the gherkins are wanted for use, take them from the brine; unsalt by putting them in fresh water for twelve hours. Pour half water and half vinegar in an untinned copper basin, throw into it a small bagful of spices, such as cloves, peppers, mustard seeds and mace. Place on the fire and at the first boil, plunge in the well drained gherkins and leave to bubble for a few moments, then remove the basin from the fire and put both gherkins and vinegar into a large jar or barrel to cool off; put in with them a handful of tarragon, some small blanched onions and shallots and a few red peppers; stand this in a well aired place for a few days and the gherkins will be then ready for use.


The Epicurean, 1894. Public domain; transcription unaltered.

So what happens if I make it?

Boiling vinegar in bare copper dissolves the metal into the liquid as copper acetate. The pickles then sit in that liquid to cool, taking it up.

Swapping in a stainless pan will not reproduce the result, and that is the honest problem with this recipe: the prized green came from the copper. Remove it and you have made a different, duller, safer pickle.

Notes from the 21st century

  • Verdigris is a copper salt. Ingested in quantity it causes vomiting and abdominal pain. Household books of the period printed tests for it because it was common.
  • “Enough salt to float an egg”. Lands somewhere near a 10% brine, but egg density varies and the recipe gives no weight, temperature or acidity.
  • The Epicurean was a professional book. Ranhofer ran the Delmonico's kitchen. This is not folk practice; it is how the best restaurant in New York did it.

Also in this book

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