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Lemon Custard with cherry-laurel

A leaf of cherry laurel boiled in the cream — and, in the same entry, the note that it is poisonous.

From
Kettner's Book of the Table
Published
1877
Yikes Scale
Call poison control

Exactly as printed, 1877

These have been known for some time on the Continent as English creams; but latterly simply as creams - vanilla cream, lemon cream, chocolate cream, according to the flavour. One receipt will be enough. Lemon Custard.-Beat up the yolks of eight eggs to a strong white cream. Mix into this very slowly a pint of boiling hot cream, together with the zest and juice of two lemons, and sugar to taste. Stir this on the fire till it thickens-but do not boil it. Add also, when nearly ready, a wineglassful of sherry and a tablespoonful of brandy. Keep stirring it till it cools, and serve it in cups with grated nutmeg.

A wonderful flavour is given to these creams or custards by boiling in the cream or milk with which they are made a laurel-leaf-that is, not a bayleaf, but a leaf of the cherry laurel. Great care, however, must be used; for the cherry laurel is poisonous.

Dab AB.-Who ever heard of dab at a fashionable dinner or in a fine bill of fare? Nevertheless a dab-the French limande is better than any flounder; and as Mr. Bugg changed his name to Norfolk Howard, the poor little dab aspires to fame under the name of a Thames flounder, which is the best of all flounders. Let us give dab his due. His name is as plebeian as Snooks or Blogg; but he is an honest fish, with a good taste and a faculty of making himself agreeable in society which his friends with great names might well envy.


Kettner's Book of the Table, 1877. Public domain; transcription unaltered.

So what happens if I make it?

Cherry laurel leaves contain prunasin, which releases hydrogen cyanide when the leaf is crushed, bruised or steeped. Boiling one in cream is a steep.

What makes this entry remarkable is that Kettner says so, in the same paragraph, and recommends it anyway. The flavour was thought worth the care.

Notes from the 21st century

  • The dose is genuinely unknowable. Glycoside content varies with variety, leaf age and season; infusion time and temperature change the extraction. There is no safe leaf count.
  • Kettner is explicit that bay will not do. The note he wants is the bitter-almond one, and the bay leaf of the soup pot does not have it.
  • This is the cyanide custard canon. Kettner's, Beeton and Cassell's all print a version. Three separate authorities, one flavouring, one molecule.

Also in this book

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