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Sparkle-fining with sugar of lead

A trade manual describes clearing cloudy liquor with lead salts — and names it a pernicious practice.

From
The French Wine and Liquor Manufacturer
Published
1863
Yikes Scale
Call poison control

Exactly as printed, 1863

kind of cloth which carries down with it all the impurities suspended in the wine. Sulphuric acid is frequently added to weak liquors for a similar purpose, either alone, or after the addition of white of egg, or isinglass, both of which it rapidly throws down in an insoluble form. A pernicious practice exists among some unprincipled parties of using certain salts of lead and potash to clear their liquors; especially those that are expected to sparkle in the glass, as cordial gin and hock wine. For this purpose, a little sugar of lead, dissolved in water, is first mixed up with the fluid, and afterwards a little more than one half its weight of sulphate of potash, also dissolved in water, is added, and the liquor is again "roused up." By standing, the sulphate of lead, formed by this mixture, subsides and leaves the liquor clear. No person should attempt to fine by this process, as the ingredients used are pernicious poisons. Bullock's and sheep's blood is used in the same way as isinglass or white of eggs, for fining red wines, beer and porter. Blood, however, is very apt to communicate a slightly unpleasant odor or flavor to wine. Lime, alum, alcohol, the acids, and heat, act by curdling or coagulating the feculencies or impurities, and thus, by increasing their density, induce their subsidence. Plaster of Paris acts partly like the above, and partly like albumen or gelatine, by enveloping and forcing down the suspended matter. Gum arabic has this advantage over most ingredients used for fining, it is not liable to putrefaction. Ropy, stringy wine can only be clarified by the addition of tannin, as specially directed in another place. (See "To Remedy Ropiness in Wine.") Infusion, Maceration, and Digestion.


The French Wine and Liquor Manufacturer, 1863. Public domain; transcription unaltered.

So what happens if I make it?

Lead acetate is soluble, sweet-tasting and very good at dropping haze out of a cloudy wine. It is also a cumulative poison, and the drinker gets it in every glass.

This one is different from the rest of the shelf: the author is not confused. The text calls it a pernicious practice by unprincipled parties. It is in the book because it was in the trade.

Notes from the 21st century

  • Sugar of lead is lead acetate. Named for its sweetness. It was used as a sweetener as well as a fining agent, which is how it got into wine in the first place.
  • The sweetness is the trap. Adulterated wine tasted better, not worse. There was no flavour cue to warn a drinker that anything had been added.
  • Our text starts mid-sentence. The digitised page begins partway through the fining passage, so the quotation opens where the source does.

Also in this book

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